I adjusted the valves and replaced timing belts a few months ago. They valves weren't as terrifying as conventional wisdom (or ducati shop rates) would lead you to believe. I didn't have to change closing shims, though. One of the things I noticed is that the motor has two little threaded holes near the cam pulleys which are usually blocked with pointlessly short bolts. These holes are actually there so you can insert longer bolts and hold the cams in place while you remove and replace the belts. You can see them in the images below. I used little brass bolts to hold the cams. This is definitely what these holes are designed for. They hold the horizontal cylinder at TDC but the vertical cylinder is 90 degrees from TDC which is exactly where you want it for a belt change. Yeah, I'll take timing belts over chains any day...
I also replaced the clutch stack and clutch basket. The original basket was pretty worn out despite that the bike only had about 14k miles on it.
The only hard part was holding everything so that I could break some of the nuts loose and to get the proper torque upon reassembly. Ducati clutches are notoriously difficult to actuate. The new clutch (Barnett) has even stiffer springs than the original so I only installed 4 of the 6 springs. This lightens the clutch pull by about 1/3 (I guess?) but I don't get any slipping. I carry the remaining two springs in the toolkit. Since it's a dry clutch, the new springs can be installed in about 2 minutes with just a few allen keys.
Suspension work - The front forks got valves and springs from GP Suspension + some setup help from schmidt314. It handles the city streets much better now.
Changed the gearing a bit because the stock gearing was ridiculously high. It's much better around town but still not out of breath on the interstate.
Modified the kickstand switch This era of Ducati cannot be started or run at all when the kickstand is down. The idea is that it keeps you from riding off with your kickstand down. This was driving me nuts because I like to put the stand down when I have to stop to fuss with a glove or something. I found a mod that involves coupling the kickstand cutoff to the neutral indicator switch. The end result is that the bike can run with the stand down only if it's in neutral. Basically, now it works like most bikes where the motor will die if you leave the stand down and try to put it in gear.
Statistics: Posted by TelemarkSean — March 7th, 2017, 5:48 pm